Hong Kong

Hong Kong Skyline

Hong Kong Skyline

Our trip is almost over. In a few hours we head to the Hong Kong airport for our flight home to Vancouver.

We were very happy to get out of Bangkok. The city can be incredibly frustrating with a large amount of poverty leading to a huge amount of tourist scams. Even heading to the airport was challenging. We loaded into a taxi that was refusing to turn on the meter and trying to extort us by telling us a fixed rate way beyond what we knew it to cost, despite me explaining that we had been in Bangkok before and were very familiar with the price. We forced him to let us out after opening the car doors and yelling for help from the buildings security guards. We got our bags and hailed another taxi. The security guard helped confirm this one would use the meter as required by law. Sure enough once we were driving away he started shrieking incessantly, “no meter, no meter.” We argued but the price he proposed was actually less than he would have made by the meter. He was not the person in the driver’s photo license on the dash. He seemed irrational and drove excessively fast which caused us some worry. On arrival we were dropped away from the usual spot near the end of the terminal as he tried to avoid the traffic control. We flew with Emirates Air and were very impressed.

Happy Valley Racing

Happy Valley Racing

Our flight was filled with tourists from mainland China. In the airport waiting lounge they started posing for photos with Leanne and then with the two of us together. We were quickly surrouned and had as many as twelve people at a time taking photos of us as everyone took turns getting pictures. We must have posed with about 50 different people and are in hundreds of photos. We were mobbed for pictures by the entire group, and aren’t really sure why as we weren’t the only foreigners taking that flight. It was very amusing and is the closest we will probably ever feel to being a celebrity in front of paparazzi.

Teresa enjoying our local cuisine.

Teresa enjoying our local cuisine.

We spent two nights in Hong Kong. On the first night I went to the island to meet up with Marco and Teresa for drinks and food. We hopped around three different places including a Russian ice bar. On our second day Leanne and I spent the afternoon at Ocean Park, which is part aquarium, part zoo, and part theme park before going to the Peak of Hong Kong to admire the skyline since the weather was good. We later met Marco and Teresa again and went to the Horse Track for Wednesday night racing. It was busy and a lot of fun, but Leanne and I left without any winnings. We had dinner on the street nearby at a place we would never have visited without local help. We enjoyed the company and it was great finish to our last day.

Photos from our last day are posted here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=123235&id=673382190&l=792a22407c

I plan to post one last blog entry once we are home, but that will be it for now. Our around the world trip is done.

Thailand

Our private pool and villa

Our private pool and villa

We have spent the last week in Thailand relaxing as our big around-the-world trip winds down. The most interesting news is that I was nearly clobbered by a huge seven pound coconut that fell from 80 feet above into our small private pool. I had been floating on my back with my eyes closed and my head in the exact spot it hit only a minute earlier. I only moved away because Leanne got in the pool. We were only a few feet away in the water when it hit beside us. While there is no doubt it would have caused serious injury, Leanne is convinced it might have killed me. With all the risk taking things I have done in my life, it would be ironic that this might have been my demise. The resort staff came and cleared out all the coconuts from nearby palms shortly thereafter and the general manager sent us a nice bottle of champagne as an apology for the scare. They do regularly clear the coconuts and it was the first time they had one come so close to hitting a guest.

The place we were staying in is a luxury resort near Krabi. It is accessible only by boat and is surrounded by nature. It is nestled between jagged karst formations and extends between three distinct beaches. They include the popular Railay Beach, but most importantly it is the only resort with direct access to Phra Nang Beach, which is easily the best beach in the entire area. Resort guests get it to themselves in the morning and late afternoon, but during the day boats of tourists pour in to pack it up as all beaches in Thailand are public by law. When this happens resort guests can move into comfortable loungers overlooking the beach with attentive staff bringing you yummy cocktails.

evening view from Phra Nang Beach

evening view from Phra Nang Beach

We were thoroughly impressed with the location, the grounds, and the staff. It was decadent. We had a very private two floor pavilion with a large fenced garden area with sunning loungers and our very own private pool. While we loved our privacy here we also enjoyed visiting the beaches and in particular the massive, inviting, infinity pool that overlooked Railay Beach. There are four staff members to every villa at this resort and you are pampered by everyone. It was certainly a splurge, but we booked directly with the resort and received a package with a free night of accommodation, two massages and a set dinner for two at our choice of their amazing three restaurants. We used it at their fine dining Thai one overlooking Phra Nang Beach on our final night.

Leanne about to sample food from our cooking class

Leanne about to sample food from our cooking class

In our five day stay we had one rainy afternoon, so Leanne and I took a private cooking course at one of the restaurants. It was great fun and great food. Even with a bit of rain, the view from the kitchen was incredible.

One of my favourite days was when we took the resort’s luxury speed boat out with another couple from the UK who were on their honeymoon. They are wonderfully likable people and we were thrilled to have spent the day with them. We saw boats of similar size on the water that were packed with over twenty people. We loved the exclusivity of ours. We were just four people being taken care of by three staff. We went island hopping and visited a number of places including Koh Phi Phi, where the movie The Beach was filmed. The beach there is packed with backpackers. Whenever possible the crew of our boat did a great job keeping us away from the hordes of tourists. We did some great snorkelling and enjoyed plenty of swimming. We also had a fantastic picnic lunch on Bamboo Island. Thanks again Steve and Edwina for the beer. The weather held out and it was a fantastic day.

a monkey in the tree above our villa

a monkey in the tree above our villa

The rest of our time was spent lounging and simply enjoying being on holiday.  When we first arrived Leanne was still recovering from bad food in Myanmar. While she rested I redeemed my complimentary massage for an indulgent two hour full body oil treatment with a well trained professional masseuse. I was on cloud nine when it was done, and so incredibly relaxed. There is nothing like getting a professional to make you feel good when your wife isn’t feeling well. Leanne redeemerd her’s for a facial when she was feeling better.

On our last night at the resort we had the entire main pool to ourselves. We swam in the warm water as the sun set and gazed at the horizon across the infinity pool. It was a fitting end to our time here.

Vertigo Restaurant, Bangkok

Vertigo Restaurant, Bangkok

We returned to Bangkok for one last night in Thailand. We had heard of the incredible views at the rooftop Vertigo Restaurant at the Banyan Tree Hotel. We thought we would treat ourselves to a view room at the hotel to enjoy the scenery both before and after dinner. Check in was a bit of a nightmare and instead of getting a room “some 50 floors up in the sky” as it said when we booked directly online, we were given a room on the 17th floor that stared directly into an apartment building. After frustrating interactions trying to get this resolved, because of occupancy (or false advertising) they couldn’t give us what we paid for. Only after finally complaining directly to the general manager did they offer some remorse and treated us for most of the cost of our dinner. The restaurant and bar provides a stunning view and we had great food and good service. If you come to Bangkok you really must try to visit the rooftop here, just don’t stay in the hotel. And if you do go to the bar, be warned women are not allowed to wear sandals. They told Leanne to either wear the ugly opened back slipper shoes they had available for loan or to go and put on sneakers. Seems like a ridiculous policy.

Photos are posted here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=135184&id=673382190&l=acb1b31bc5 

We are off to Hong Kong for a couple more nights and then our trip comes to an end when we return to Vancouver. We have been travelling for over six months continuously since we first started in Colombia and it feels like it is time to return.

Myanmar

Girls ready for the festival in Mandalay

Girls ready for the festival in Mandalay

Myanmar (Burma) Myanmar is the 80th sovereign country I have been to and is easily in my shortlist of favourites. It is a place of beauty (well maybe not Yangon) with some astonishing world wonders and the people we met here are incredibly wonderful and friendly. Like Bhutan it is a predominately Buddhist country with a founding principal of altruism and bringing happiness to others. It is also non-westernized. There are no familiar stores, and the country is still mostly analog. By example they handwrite on the plane tickets when taking flights. You cannot use ATMs and credit cards can only be used at the occasional high-end hotel. Your only access to money is what you bring in. Fortunately there is very little crime here to worry about.

Michael and Leanne at the Schwedagon Stupa

Michael and Leanne at the Schwedagon Stupa

We had a whirlwind tour visiting Yangon (Rangoon), Bagan, Mandalay, and Inle Lake all within one week. We employed five different local guides as well as drivers on our visit to see as much as possible in a short period of time. We also had to fly between each of these regions as by land they are each at least 10 hours apart.

Yangon is the largest city in the country and its old British colonial buildings are in a serious state of decay. While the city itself looks quite drab, it is home to the phenomenal Shwedagon Stupa. This massive gold covered stupa is caped with the second largest diamond in the world. The whole area around it is filled with shrines and it is a sight to behold. We spent the late afternoon until early evening there people watching and seeing the whole area light-up.

A misty sunrise in Bagan

A misty sunrise in Bagan

Visiting Bagan is like entering another world. There are over 4000 stupas, pagodas, and shrines across a small lush green valley. It has a tiny population and the dirt roads and laid-back life of people here make the place very charming. We climbed up a number of the buildings and enjoyed a beautiful sunset and sunrise over the valley. When we had dinner in the evening we could see small home made fire balloons lighting up the night sky. As in previous countries we encountered people visiting from villages who starred at us gobsmacked as we were the first foreigners they had ever seen in person. I love it when this happens. This region is one of my all time favourites.

Lady selling owls near Mandalay

Lady selling owls near Mandalay

Our next visit was to Mandalay. Unlike Yangon this is an attractive city. We arrived on the day of a huge festival that takes places during the full moon this time of year. Kids were dressed in costumes and had road blocks everywhere trying to collect money from vehicles to use to party with that night. It was fun to see. The whole place had a very convivial atmosphere. We visited a long teak bridge, saw a girl selling owls, apparently locals buy them and free them on their birthday and watched monks in a nearby monastery line up for the morning meal. In the evening we watched 9000 candles lit in numerous patterns on top of Mandalay Hill where we saw the sunset and had clear views of the full moon. A head military commander was coming to the hill to see the candle offering to the Buddha. We left as he was arriving.

Children playing on Inle Lake

Children playing on Inle Lake

Inle Lake was another real gem. The lake is large, but shallow and only about 3 meters deep. It is picturesque and homes are built on stilts above the water. With no land kids play on wooden boats on the canals. We stayed in a terrific resort only reachable by water and we were greeted by a welcoming raised Canadian flag. We had a large two room villa here. We spent the entire day on the lake visiting floating islands and tomato fields, fishing villages and weaving workshops. Here we were offered to share some of the local’s lunch of tomatoes and chillies. I politely declined but Leanne obliged and had a little. Unfortunately we think this caused her a bad case of food poisoning since she would have no tolerance to the bacteria of the local water. She spent the last night in Myanmar in agony and luckily made it back through to Thailand after an unpleasant flight.

We have already posted photos and will make an effort to comment on them soon. They can be found here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=134675&id=673382190&l=8ec48feecd  

Government propoganda not reflective of the people

Government propoganda not reflective of the people

I was going to avoid writing about it but since we have already met someone who questioned why we went to Myanmar (formerly Burma) I offer the following explanation. We were apprehensive about going, but did plenty of research on the situation before making the decision to visit. There has been an informal travel boycott on the country since 1995 when Aung San Suu Kyi, the lady who was elected by the people years earlier but was imprisoned by the military and never allowed to rule, publically requested tourists not visit the country until later. The military government was opening its doors after years of self-isolation for what it hoped would be a big year of tourism money in 1996. It was thought at the time that going to the country was supporting that government and the money brought in by foreigners would keep it in power. Years later the government has done billion dollar deals with India and China for rights to natural resources, making tourist money almost insignificant. As a result, since 2003 the country no longer forces tourists to change money at a horrendous rate with the government when you arrive. Tourism is now mostly privatized and outsiders now estimate over 80% of the money brought in by tourists goes directly into the hands of the people living there who desperately need it. We met people who love Aung San Suu Kyi and still consider her the mother of the country and in their eyes her call for a travel boycott was her one mistake. It has hurt the locals for 13 years much more than it hurt the government. Next year Myanmar is planning on holding elections to show itself as a new democracy, but the government has gone out of its way to ensure Aung San Suu Kyi will not be on the ballot.